Molecules 27.14 (2022): 4411.
Historical marquisette curtains were composed of lightweight fabrics, woven in an openmesh and leno-type weave, usually made of silk, and found in Qing imperial buildings. As panel curtains, they were exposed to light, and so underwent fading. This study investigated the manufacturing technology and fading mechanism of dyed marquisette fabric from the Studio of Cleansing Fragrance, the Palace Museum (Beijing). The technological aspects were identified. The types of weave, fiber, and adhesive used to fix the curtain to the wooden frame were identified through microscopic observation and infrared spectroscopy. A color change characterization was performed based on UV-visible diffuse reflectance spectra. The textile colorant was identified as malachite green (MG), and its degradation by light was subsequently studied by dynamic photolysis experiments in a kinetic solution for the rapid exploration of by-products. The main degradation pathways were thus identified and the factors responsible for the induced color changes were discussed. A comparison of the liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) results of the products derived from the photolysis method as well as of the samples extracted from the object allowed for the identification of the presence of different degradation pathways in the faded and unfaded parts of the textile. A metabolomics analysis was applied to account for the differences in the degradation pathways.
